Christchurch and departure

Well here it is - the last day of our journey. We took the convenient city bus into the central business district this morning. We knew about the devastating earthquake in February 2011, but didn't know what we would find. The CBD had a large area called the Red Zone where no cars or pedestrians were allowed. This enormous area was totally ruined, with many buildings totally demolished and others in various stages of rubble. There were signs of reconstruction, but many buildings were supported by freight crates stacked high to prevent them from falling over. We could not get close to the cathedral but saw where they were rebuilding a "cardboard cathedral". There were 115 people ( out of 186) killed all from one building and a monument of white chairs were set up in their memory. Very moving. In the center of all this, however, REstart has put containers with many shops and cafes, to revitalize and keep alive the center if the city! We also visited a Quake museum that retold the story ( visions if Katrina..).

And so it is, a sad note to leave this beautiful country. People are still suffering from the tragedy here but it will come back!

In my final review yesterday, I omitted to mention another highlight if our visit and that was the reunion if Stephen with his Pitcairn penpal Elaine! It was truly a magical day never to be forgotten.

Thanks for coming along on our adventure!!

Christchurch

Today was a major travel day from Dunedin for the final drive of five hours to return our camper in Christchurch by mid afternoon. Tonight we are at an airport hotel
Our drive took us north on the east coast; Huge farms of sheep and smooth sand beaches. On the way we stopped in oamaru , a vibrant victorian town. Half way we pulled off the road at Moreaki and walked along the beach to see these giant stone balls perfectly round and many were ten foot in diameter. Quite a spectacular site.
On arrival in Christchurch we easily returned our camper and bikes at separate depots. We then headed to the Airport across from our hotel to pickup a clothing reimbursement check from when our bags were delayed weeks earlier on our arrival. Our farewell date was pad Thai at an airport restaurant! Tomorrow we head into town before our late afternoon departure.

Farewell thoughts... New Zealand really exceeded all our expectations. The scenery was spectacular, the camper was our home. We climbed mountains, walked beaches, crossed swinging bridges, swam in hot pools, took a boat through caves, hiked to a glacier, toured a chocolate factory, ran from a sea lion, climbed a sand dune, walked the jungle, cruised a fiord, sat on beached boulders, walked through geysers and bubbling cauldrons of mud, visited pancake rocks and blowholes and more.
We drove 1800 miles on the wrong side of the road - on narrow, winding, steep, quiet roads with one way bridges and a surprise at every turn. Our camper felt like our own little shelter - we were organized and efficient. We ate almost all our meals " at home" every night, with a glass of wine and a toast, saying " every day is a gift"! And this it is!
By by New Zealand. You are a special place ...

Dunedin and portobello

It was a bright cold blue skied morning to start our four and half hour drive from te anau to Dunedin. The journey took us through beautiful countryside and loads of sheep farms on either side. It was the first day we drove on relatively straight roads the whole way! Loads of tiny towns, mostly sheep farm centers and not much else. When we reached Dunedin our first stop was the Cadbury chocolate factory for a tour. It's an old operating factory so got to see chocolate bars in the making. We had to put on hair nets and remove all jewelry and watches! The final room was a huge silo where chocolate poured down from above. Wow! Our next stop was sandfly bay. It was at the remote end of otago peninsula, about 25 minutes from central Dunedin. What a magical coastline with huge sand dunes and gorgeous coastline. We climbed down an enormous sand dune - almost vertical and several 100 feet high, on to the shoreline. There we found penguins scurrying by. Many sea lions dotted the coast. Then - one began to chase me! Stephen headed in one direction, and I ran down the coast. Wasn't sure how fast it would go! Then it suddenly stopped and found its mate! We watched the male and female sea lion doing their thing in front of us - right out of a national geographic magazine! We decided to head to our campsite before nightfall, since the road was a narrow one lane road, high above the coast. Gorgeous! Our last night in the "cramper"!

Milford sound

We were picked up early from the campsite, ready for the all day trip down to Milford sound. The special scenic coach took us on the spectacular Milford road through impressive alpine scenery. We made a few photo stops - one at mirror lake and the other at cascading falls. Both amazing! After two hours we arrived at Milford sound! We boarded a ship with masts ( and overnight accommodation for over night cruises) and headed out the full length of the sound to the Tasman sea. The cruise took us by huge waterfalls ( where we rode right under and got soaking wet!) to watching seals sunning themselves on rocks. We rode right alongside the sheer face of the fiords. Incredible viewing no matter which way we turned! It rained heavily, producing huge long waterfalls - thousands of them! What a truly amazing day!

Milford sound

We were picked up early from the campsite, ready for the all day trip down to Milford sound. The special scenic coach took us on the spectacular Milford road through impressive alpine scenery. We made a few photo stops - one at mirror lake and the other at cascading falls. Both amazing! After two hours we arrived at Milford sound! We boarded a ship with masts ( and overnight accommodation for over night cruises) and headed out the full length of the sound to the Tasman sea. The cruise took us by huge waterfalls ( where we rode right under and got soaking wet!) to watching seals sunning themselves on rocks. We rode right alongside the sheer face of the fiords. Incredible viewing no matter which way we turned! It rained heavily, producing huge long waterfalls - thousands of them! What a truly amazing day!

Te anau

Trout fishing rivers and high country scenery dominated our drive today. The first part of our journey took us along the edge of lake wakatipu with its majestic mountains. We stopped in kingston, home of the vintage steam train. A quick stop in the small town of lumsden with the antique car display if old zephyrs! We finally arrived in
Te anau which borders the largest lake in
South Island and the closest base to Milford sound. Tonight we took a great tour of the glow worm caves! It was a thirty minute boat trip out to the entrance of the caves - part of a 6.7 km four level limestone labyrinth of caves. We were separated into groups of twelve and brought down into the low entrance. Quickly it opened up to the expansive cathedral - highest point in the cave system. The waters were rushing below us on the metal stairwells around the deep caves. Finally we boarded a small boat, steered by our guide on pulley ropes, in the pitch dark, as we saw glows in the ceiling of the cave, just like stars. We felt very disoriented since it was so dark. We were asked not to speak or take pictures. Just take in the experience! And it was quite awesome! Back 30 minutes on the boat and now settled into our camper again for the night. And yes, it's still raining!!!

Queenstown

Our campsite was a few minute walk into the center of town, just at the base of the gondola. Such a pretty spot nestled in the mountains. The campgrounds were pretty full with excellent facilities once again - community kitchens and showers, tv room, playgrounds. We walked into town and visited the artisan market by the lake. Plenty of tourists here from all over the world. We decided to hike around the lake, the garden peninsula, and on to the next town of frankton - about 7 miles. Gorgeous walk along a manicured path taking us beside big homes overlooking the mountains. We took the intercity bus back to Queenstown with the locals. This city is busy selling loads of extreme sporting adventures - speed boats, bungy jumping, etc. Not for us!

Drive to Queenstown

We packed up early for our 5.5 hour drive south to Queenstown. First stop was at fox glacier, a short 25 min drive. The clouds and rain was heavy so we decided to drive down to lake Matheson for the perfect view of mount cook in the distance. Sure enough, there it was! But clouds quickly moved in, but it was still great. The drive took us along the coastal forest and mountain landscapes. The views of the coastal bluffs and ever changing views were amazing. We passed the town of Haast,a world heritage area and most dramatic of any roads in the southern alps. The pass follows the Haast river through alpine and steep forested valleys. Finally driving into Queenstown was jaw dropping - snow capped mountains, fall colored trees, sheep grazing, winding mountain roads. The town itself is nestled in the valley by the waters edges, surrounded by steep mountains. Wow! Plenty of restaurants and shops. Our campsite is really full with modern facilities, minutes from town. Here two nights!

Climbing the glacier

The day was perfect for the climb up to the franz Josef glacier, just a short drive outside town. The hike took us through dense forest to a huge clearing in the river bed, with grayish water rushing down from the glacier in front of us. It was eerie to be out there in the open, with just a handful of people and us! After about an hour and a half we reached the base if the massive glacier. Really spectacular! So grand! After hiking back we took the rest of the day to rest and relax around the small village and along the waters edge. Loads of backpackers from all over the world in town. Helicopters kept flying overhead, but we chose to see the sites from the ground. Our rainforest retreat campsite was the best yet, with tree huts, beautiful facilities and a restaurant/bar, where we stopped in at night for a glass of wine by the fire, to chat with some fellow travelers.

Franz Josef glacier

The one thing about so many rain showers - when the sun comes out, so do huge bright rainbows. And we've certainly had our share today! The drive to franz Josef is only 3 hours but it took all day. Our first stop was lake mahinapua. A 40 min walk took use through thick rainforest. The lake was brilliant. With such calm waters, the reflection of the clouds in the water was almost eerie! Further down the road we picnicked at lake ianthe. A glacial lake , it also proved to be incredible. On our way again we stopped to do a 30 minute hike thru lush forest to a look out over the bay. At night this is popular as a spot to watch kiwi birds. Driving into franz Josef, we sensed this was definitely a haven for adventurers and backpackers. Loads of heli skiing, glacier climbing and flights available to the mountain tops nearby. Our holiday park called rainforest retreat, is the coolest yet. We are deep in the forest. Plenty of things to do here including a hot pool, spa, restaurant, gathering lounges and community kitchen. Two night stop so heading to glaciers tomorrow!